One of the most significant characteristics that make our shirts to what they are today is their impeccable and high-performing fabric. To understand the complex weaving process, our journey took us to Bergamo, Italy, where we visited Albini, one of the world’s finest shirt fabric weavers and a long-term partner to Eton.
For our Eton shirts we are using extra long staple cotton, which stand out with their fineness and resistance. After harvesting and controlling the cotton, the spinner transforms the raw cotton fibres into yarns.
The dyeing techniques are determined by the fineness of the yarn and the preferred colour. The yarn is put on perforated cone that enables the colour substances to penetrate the entire yarn while they are in the autoclave, a special dying machine.
The laboratory plays a crucial role in ensuring the fabrics final performance and look. They control the raw and natural yarns to ensure the right weight, diameter and shade as well as the dyed yarn’s uniformity, continuity over time and fastness to rubbing.
After being controlled, the yarns are winded on to cylindrical cones to later slide smoothly on the warp frame. A woven fabric is based on a warp (vertical) and weft (horizontal) pattern.
The warp cones are manually put in the right place, which is determined by the CAD design of the fabric designer.
The threads are wounded onto a steel cylinder and then to a warp beam that is later put into the weaving loom.
After several steps of preparation, the actual weaving can finally start. In this process the weft yarn entwines the warp yarn and the pattern, texture and structure appear.
Modern looms can produce fabrics with more than 640 passes per minute, but require much more time when it comes to finer and more delicate fabrics. At this stage the unfinished fabric is called greige.
Now, the greige fabric is visually controlled for any defects such as naps or colour in-constancy. The approved fabric is then sent to one of our finishing facilities in Switzerland and Germany where it is treated with our special crease-resistant finish and controlled once more before being send to our production facilities.