Eton delves into the heart of sartorial excellence at the renowned Reda mill in Biella, Italy. Invented by nature and designed to shield from the winter's chilly embrace and the summer’s undeniable heat, Merino wool–discover the intricacies behind this extraordinary fiber.

Thermo-regulating, breathable, quick-drying, moisture-wicking, odor-resistant, naturally flexible, wrinkle-resistant, and aesthetically pleasing–these qualities make it truly unique. Francesco Botto Poala, President & Chief Operating Officer of Successori Reda, aptly captures the essence of Merino wool: "If an engineer were tasked to develop a new fiber with all the benefits of Merino wool, it would be impossible. You can copy one or two of its characteristics, but combining all in one single fiber would be impossible."

Nestled at the foot of the Italian Alps, the Reda mill has been making fine wool fabrics since 1865. Founded by Carlo Reda and currently overseen by the Botto Poala family since 1919, the mill stands at the intersection of tradition and innovation. The pure and natural soft water flowing from the mountains was once a key asset in weaving fine wool fabrics and has made Biella home to the world’s finest wool mills. Although the area has since witnessed a modern transformation into regenerated water systems, the profound knowledge and passion persists in this historic region.

Specializing in fine, superfine, and ultra-fine merino wool—the highest grades available—Reda’s fully vertical production process spans from merino sheep farms in New Zealand to spinning, weaving, and fabric finishing. Francesco Botto Poala emphasizes the significance of controlling the entire process,

“The control of the entire process makes the difference. You can add value to every single step and always improve to make a better fabric, while equally minimizing the carbon footprint.”

The complex process of creating fine wool fabrics involves meticulous steps. Once the wool is sheared from the sheep, it is reviewed under a microscope to define the thickness of the raw wool fiber. For the shirting fabrics, Reda uses Super 120 wool, which translates to a fiber diameter of 17.75 micrometers, also called superfine merino—the second-highest grade of merino wool. This grading is characterized by its softness, fineness, and durability, making it great for everyday use.

The raw wool, known in the industry as greasy wool, makes its way to a washing facility in Romagnano Sesia, a 40-minute drive from the weaving mill in Biella. Each bale of wool, which contains the fleece of around 70 sheep, is carefully inspected before it undergoes a meticulous process of washing, carding and combing. These steps remove short fibers and irregularities, transforming the wool into uniform fibers.

Post this rejuvenating treatment, the wool undergoes a striking transformation through the dyeing phase. Reda’s shirting fabrics boast a distinctive top-dyed technique. In this method, the wool is dyed before it’s spun into yarn. This not only yields a luxuriously rich mélange effect by seamlessly blending various hues of combed wool during spinning but also achieves a reduction in dyeing pigment usage.

Once the wool is dyed the spinning process starts which transforms the wool into uniform yarns. All previous steps are crucial to reach the right fineness and durability of the yarn. Depending on weave construction and number of yarns in the two different directions of the fabric (warp and weft) the weaving process transforms the yarns into a fabric. The final finishing process enhances the softness of the fabric.

It might be easy to assume that wool fabrics are exclusively reserved for suits and tailored garments. However, the reality is quite the opposite. Through over a decade of dedicated research, Reda has innovatively developed shirting fabrics that excel in unique performance.

“When you wear it directly against your skin, the benefits of Merino become more apparent in a shirt compared to, for instance, a suit jacket. Many associate Merino with winter, but its thermoregulatory properties make it equally suitable for warmer weather. I recently returned from a trip to New Zealand, where temperatures soared close to 30ºC, and wearing our merino wool shirt fabric was a true pleasure.” - Francesco Botto Poala